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Neil Murray's Blitz and Blitz Tips

FOR SALE

Unbolt what you need and discard.

(This is also the method I used to build my Blitz.)

If you look closely you will see that a Metro Clock set has been used,  A bargain at 5 rather than 80 for a 3 clock Mini set from a local scrap yard. 

A front guard can be seen here protecting the underside of the fuel tank.

Here you see the full range of protection.  There is also a sump guard to protect the gear linkage and a guard to protect to protect the engine/gearbox sump.

Also you may notice that the tie bars look square.  This is because they are reinforced with angle iron to give them a little strength, a simple and much cheaper option than off the shelf up rated items.

 

Neil's Mods

One mod, used a lot is for the gear linkage, use a steering u.j. (mine came from a Peugeot 309) it really improves the whole driving experience and its easy to do. [A BLITZNORTHEAST  .co.uk top tip]

I had trouble finding a three clock dash from a mini (under 80) so I used a MG Metro dash it has what you need rev. counter etc. it cost me 5 at Haugh lane scrap yard in Hexham, BARGAIN. 

One of the most essential modifications. if for those weak tie rods, I welded angle iron Along the rods another easy one to do. A sump guard is very important for those who use there blitz the way it is supposed to be. 

My first engine was damaged by stones and sods hitting it, the veins that run around the gearbox had bits cracked off and the gearbox had signs of cracking, that engine has now been binned. My sump guard is fixed to the bits of angle that runs parallel to the gear linkage, we welded bolts to them. At the back of the guard it is fixed via the front sub-frame mount (bolted through it) my guard is made from alloy. 

An important mod. (as I found out when the oil warning light was flashing) is a center oil pick up, best to do this when the engine is out to start with, it would be incredibly annoying to need to take the engine out just for that, It's wise to spend that extra 30 and save an engine rather than finding out later, I found that I needed to take the lay shaft out to get the old pick up out, but this isn't as big a job as it sounds.  [A BLITZNORTHEAST  .co.uk top tip]

As you will have noticed the radiator is in a vulnerable position I have used a piece of wire mesh across it, no stones or sticks have found the way through it (yet).  

An essential is to put a 4 pin diff. in they cost around 150 I recommend putting this in when you put a center oil pick up pipe in or the other way around. [A BLITZNORTHEAST  .co.uk top tip]

The clutch was thought to be slipping but as I discovered when whacking the Blitz up through the gears I noticed that the fluid wasn't moving through the pipes fast enough, the solution to this is to use wider diameter pipe.

Just a warning for the first drive, BEWARE of those track rods I put the burners on mine to get the old track rod ends off and the heat weakened one. It would break in half just as I was going through a gate AT 60 MPH, the back left wheel stepped out and pulled the back of the car to the right, I missed the gatepost by engineering standards.

I hope my modifications will save people the problems I have had.  My e-mail address is on the site too then people can get in touch with me directly. 

Neil Murray 

E- mail: Murray100tw@hotmail.com

Blitz North East would like to thank Neil Murray for his contribution to the web page.