Our Blitz Build
Technical Info The Diary
This is the Blitz Belonging to Ben Cockburn, Barry Tease and Myself Philip Tonkin
Here it is modeled By Barry Tease (BLT) In its workshop guise. It is fitted Metro wheels inverted to give a rolling chassis but still allow access to the brakes without removal.
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This shows our first attempt at a rear coil over conversion and modified sub frame. I know we are not the first to do this as a member of the Blitz North West club has coilovers on the rear of his car . This is by far the simplest way to do it using the standard mounting brackets on the top arms but does not give clearance for low pressure floatation tyres. So a new conversion is now completed and has ruined our shiny paint, ah never mind. SEE THE NEW CONVERSION in detail on the Suspension Page.
We have used up rated Tie bars as the originals are like toffee. All brake, clutch and fuel lines made of braided hose for strength.
This is a major difference between ours and all the others. There is a single diagonal roll bar, no second bar increasing head room for the driver and and an additional bar to mount 4 point harnesses. This was done by NCF at manufacture to our spec and not added later.
And how could I forget the Ram Pipe. Ah!!! Small Animals can be sucked into this so we have an ITG Sock Filter. (Blitz North East does not condone cruelty to small animals!)
The rear electronics box awaiting connection. The Exhaust fitted. The side intrusion bars
The Blitz is currently powered by a BL A+ Engine with stage 1 tuning, i.e. Long Centre Branch exhaust manifold, MG alloy inlet manifold, Up rated Induction Filter and an HIF 44 Carburetor. More tuning may follow but only if its necessary, its no good having a shed load of power if you can't transmit it through the wheels and maintain traction. In this state it will probably produce around 63 BHP about that of a standard SPi Cooper. That is almost three times the power of a Fiat based Blitz 1, adequate I'm sure. In theory with that much power, the 2.9:1 Final drive from the Metro gearbox and the increased wheel diameter should allow a top end of over 100 mph. Arrgh.
Our original spec was to use 12" x 5" Revolution RFX wheels as used on NCF's Blitz 2 but with these being around £240 for a set of 4 we decided to look for an alternative. And we found it, in the shape of 4 Performance Superlites (The Australian Ones). At £60 for 4 with road tyres this hurt the wallet much less. They required as the lacquer was knackered painting and thus the red paint. The Wheels.
The next modification will be an up-rated differential. The standard Mini twin pin diff is not really up to the increased punishment. The last thing you want is to shear a diff pin halfway up a slope leaving you driven only by you offside rear wheel, projecting you to exit stage left. I know this can happen because it has happened in my road car, from the fast lane of the A1. But if your unlucky it may not just fail and stop working the final drive may decide to take a tour of your gearbox taking more than its fair share of souvenirs. So we will fit at least a Four Pin diff, this behaves in the same way as the twin pin but has twice the strength. An LSD would be nice but the cost is a major let down at at least £400.
A Series engine tuning by Green and White Mini Spares. Anyone who knows about Rallycross or autograss knows these are the guys to speak to if you want you A Series race prepped. They also can get you any component you might require to build your Blitz, either New or Secondhand and won't be confused when you want to buy 4 suspension tie bars for the front AND the Rear. A Blitz is a great way to confuse Mini specialists. They know the bits that are strong and will last with years of experience in Off Road Mini Racing not just the bits that look nice. Nice bits are fine on a concours Mini, I have my own (or had), but not on a Blitz. Green and White are available on 0191 584 0010, and be sure to mention Blitz North East.
After return from Green and White, with the engine sounding very sweet they pointed out a few changes we needed to make. We had used an early outer steering column, so we have changed it for a longer, later one. The camber was just to positive with metro hubs on the rear so these have been changed for another set of mini hubs. The Metro 4 pot calipers were on the rear (on the Metro hubs.) These have now been put on the front and the Mini 2 pots on the rear.
One major concern they had was the position of the rear steering rack. Due to the increased ride height of our rear end the track rods were at a very steep angle. This meant as the suspension compressed the rods tended toward level and as a result pushed the rear wheels to steer inwards. By bringing the rack down about 1.5" - 2" this should solve the problem.